People keep travel journals, but Eliot Thomas files his adventures into the menu of his new restaurant, Magpie, where he fires up “borderless soul-food” at Tiong Bahru. There’s no singular type of cuisine here, nor is it a fusion of two or more. It’s a mosaic, a collage of global influences coming together in unexpected yet deliciously harmonious ways. Think passionfruit in ceviche or sambal-ish dressing with cheese. Expect the familiar in unfamiliar ways, bold experimentations, and unique expressions that transcend borders. We found ourselves saying “I know that taste” or “I didn’t know this can taste like that” several times throughout the meal. This mental and sensory jolt also meant there were hits and misses, purely down to personal preferences. But this also sparked great table conversation, especially when we shared our own interpretations of each dish.
But first, who is Eliot Thomas?
Eliot Thomas, the New Zealander who co-owns and helms the kitchen at the newly opened Magpie in Tiong Bahru. [Photos: Magpie]
“Don’t call him Chef”, I was told before meeting chef-owner Eliot Thomas. To him, “Chef” creates a kind of hierarchy, when Magpie is all about coming together and sharing the good times. Eliot embodies the spirit of the magpie – his restaurant’s namesake – gathering the brightest inspirations from his travels and transforming them into culinary treasures. The New Zealander began his culinary passion scrubbing dishes in his parents’ pub and has since travelled the world, honing his craft at renowned restaurants before crossing paths with Kurt Wagner, the visionary behind Tamba and Café Utu. Their shared passion for “big, honest flavours and unpretentious cuisine” inspired the creation of Magpie.
The Drinks
Lekker Spritz and Bicicletta are just some of the refreshing aperitif-style cocktails to complement the food at Magpie. [Photos: Andrina Loo]
Equally experimental is their wine list, which is switched up regularly. Despite bringing in small-batches of wines from boutique wineries, their selection spans beyond conventional red and white to include orange (skin contact) and rosé wines. Beyond familiar Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, you’ll find lesser-seen varietals like the bold and tannic Xinomavro (Greece), the delicate Poulsard (France), the fruity and floral Malvazija (Slovenia), and more. The wine list evolves around the food menu and is carefully selected to pair with key flavours and the overall vibe. Can’t decide what to have? The team will be more than happy to recommend. Wine starts from S$23++ per glass to S$188++ per bottle at the time of writing.
For those seeking non-alcoholic alternatives, we found NON 5 (S$15++ per glass, S$70++ per bottle) and Muri (S$78++ per bottle) on the menu, together with a low-abv craft beer option, Tiny Hazy (S$7++). Cocktail lean towards refreshing and citrusy flavours, with a couple of aperitif cocktails like Lekker Spritz (S$22++) and Bicicletta (S$22++) to start off the meal.
The Food
The concise menu covers a diverse range of ingredients and proteins, with dishes thoughtfully marked with DF (dairy-free), GF (gluten free), and Veg, providing clarity for people with dietary needs.
The experimental offerings at Magpic bring flavours from around the world, including combining zucchini flower into a dish very similar to a yam ring to the writer's opinion. [Photos: Andrina Loo]
We started with snacks like Fresh Tandoori Bread (S$9++), freshly-baked from the restaurant’s tandoor and served with housemade Magpie butter. The Fried Zucchini Flower (S$16++) had us puzzled; it looks like a chicken drumstick and has the crisp and creaminess of a popular Zi Char dish, Yam Ring. It must have something to do with the ricotta and fermented chilli in the dish, so, those who love their yam, will find a surprise delight in this gem, even though it’s made of zucchini flower and not yam.
The Fiji's ceviche can be found on Magpie's menu with the day's freshest catch. [Photo: Magpie]
From the Small Plates, we relished the Market Haul Kokoda (S$26++), Fiji’s version of a ceviche using the day’s freshest catch. The team visits the market daily to pick out the best fish, and we had the grouper the day we visited. Instead of the sharp zing from lime and lemon, we were met with the tangy sweetness from passionfruit and a subtle nuttiness from the coconut, evoking Thai-inspired flavours. Best enjoyed with the rice crackers. The Pugliese Burrata (S$34++) was served with a curried brinjal pickle reminiscent of sambal chili – an unexpected pairing yet one that appealed to our Asian taste buds.
A jumbo beef skewer in Magpie designed for sharing. [Photo: Magpie]
Among the Big Plates, we shared the Grilled Beef Skewer (S$54++), served with rich romesco sauce and egg yolk, and the Barbacoa Chicken (S$48++), coated in a flavourful Mexican mole sauce that made it pleasantly moreish. For larger groups, we think the Lamb T-Bone with Pomegranate Molasses (S$56++) makes for a solid choice, while the Whole Grilled Grouper with Nonya Butter (S$78++) stands out as an intriguing option.
Magpie's star dessert (right) is the House Sorbet; and The Wagner, named after another co-owner, is an alcoholic orange gelato with peated whisky. [Photo: Andrina Loo]
The Wagner (S$19++), orange gelato with coffee and peated whisky dessert, was unanimously our favourite dessert, for its delightful combination of flavours (and whisky!). The House Sorbet (S$12++) is whatever freshly made that day, and we had the Rose Apple, commonly known as Jambu in Singapore. We definitely caught its distinct aroma but it could use a little more sweetness to fully round out the flavours. Then again, it is really a matter of personal preference, because we are used to eating Jambus with dark soya sauce and red cut chilli, embracing the big, bold flavours.
The Space
A welcoming space filled with ambient tunes. Counter seats offer a front-row view of the kitchen action. [Photo: Magpie]
Designed for connection, the indoor space is filled with vibey ambient tunes and vintage mementos set against dark wood and green-accented tiles. Counter seats offers a front-row view of the kitchen action, and there’s even a cosy enclave which sits six. The semi-private space is a homage to Eliot’s roots where we see black and white photographs of his family on the walls, evoking a warmth of someone’s home.
The necklace that lends a ground presence, which the Magpie team is encouraged to stare at to release stress and anxiety. [Photo: Magpie]
We couldn’t take our eyes off the 2.5-metre long Coromandel granite necklace hanging on the wall. Shipped from New Zealand and crafted by Eliot’s cousin, this three-layered centerpiece resembles a mala necklace, leding a ground presence. “I’ve told my team that if they’re ever stress and anxious, they should just go and stare at it for grounding. There were a few of those moments when setting up Magpie for me, and it helped—you have my word,” shares Eliot.
Outdoors, pawrents will be glad to know that they can dine alfresco with their furkids and best part? There’s easy access to the bar for beer, wine, and cocktails.
Final Thoughts
Big, bold, and experimental is how we’d sum up Magpie. While it’s not the most wallet-friendly option at Tiong Bahru, it just might surprise you in ways you never expected.
Magpie is located at 57 Eng Hoon St, Singapore 160057, and is open Wednesday through Sunday.
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