Every time I return to Kuala Lumpur for a visit, I try to plan a night at Mizukami.
Twelve years ago, the same space housed Omakase + Appreciate, where Shawn Chong and Karl Too co-founded Malaysia’s very first bar dedicated to omakase-style cocktails, drinks made to order. It became a training ground for top bartenders like Shirmy Chan, Janice Lau, Yinying Leow and Joe Ngui. It also hosted industry big guns like Hidetsugu Ueno (Bar High Five), Nico de Soto, and Remy Savage.
Omakase + Appreciate was a dimly lit underground cave of a bar, narrow and windowless, surrounded by almost-angry red walls. Shelves of spirits lined the tight space behind the bar, and bartenders had to move carefully to avoid knocking things over. A painting of (presumably) Jerry Thomas tossing a flaming Blue Blazer was a focal point, liquid flying from one shaker to another midair. That painting captured the spirit of the bar: foundational, classic, and unbothered by trends. It was also the first bar in Malaysia to stay brand-independent. After a good seven-year run, the bar closed in March 2020.
The renewed look of the same space as Mizukami, lower ground of Ming Annexe, Jalan Ampang (Masjid Jamek), Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. [Photo: Michael Yeoh]
That December, Shawn announced a reopening, which eventually happened in August 2022 – new name, new look, new energy. Mizukami was a different world: bright, clean, and fully reflective of Shawn himself. The horseshoe bar offers guests a front-row view of the bartender at work, everything laid bare, every gesture visible. Overhead, a ceiling mimics the reflection of ripples or perhaps northern lights, creating a soothing, meditative atmosphere.
Karl’s Absence, Ever Present
2024 brought heartbreak. Shawn’s social media post about Karl’s sudden passing made me realise how far out of touch I had been. Karl – the genius who could make the perfect cocktail for me every time, the kind soul who always gave back to the bar community, the flavour geek who could riff endlessly on ingredients, was gone
While the rest of us mourned, Shawn quietly picked up the pieces of a memory only he truly shared. “He (Karl) was a brother-in-arms,” he said, describing their closeness. “We shared the same vision of wanting to inspire and elevate cocktail culture in Kuala Lumpur. In the bar, he was a flavour genius, pairing things you wouldn’t expect to work. His drinks reflected his personality: bold, with a quiet confidence. I wanted to incorporate elements of him into my drink as an ode to him. It gave the drink more soul and a stronger story to tell.”
Karl Too, on the left and his signature chin-holding pose; and Shawn Chong, on the right. Taken in Omakase + Appreciate on their 6th anniversary piece. [Photo: Kim Choong]
The Return to Competition
In December 2024, a social media post showed Shawn’s beaming face holding a gold plaque. He had won the Malaysian leg of the Angostura Global Cocktail Challenge. Two months later, he clinched the Asia title in Bangkok.
It was his first competition in a decade. “Call it a calling,” he said. “I received a message from the local distributor for Angostura asking me to join, but there was another force. Something told me this was the one last thing I had to do for Karl.”
There was comfort in knowing Karl’s memory would be honoured on a global stage – with a bang. Shawn also saw it as a chance to observe how competitions have evolved and what the new generation of bartenders is bringing to the table.
A Legacy of Precision and Presence
Shawn was a serial winner of Diageo World Class Malaysia in 2009, 2011, and 2015. The World Class portfolio suited his persona: controlled, precise, and composed, an elegant contrast to the more flamboyant styles often seen in competitions of that era. His presentation was never loud. Every movement was deliberate. Nothing wasted. It was a cultivated discipline.
Shawn Chong in 2015, competiting in Bangkok. [Photo: Sourced]
That first win opened new doors: brand ambassadorships, teaching roles in hospitality universities, and a wider industry influence. “Competitions shaped my career in more ways than one. They train you to think beyond daily bartending, to interpret themes and translate abstract ideas into liquid form. They keep you on trend. And once you win, there’s a responsibility: to carry yourself well, represent your bar, and your country.”
Angostura’s Stage: A Colourful Contrast
Angostura, a brand with its Caribbean flair, flamboyance, and vibrancy, is an aesthetic opposite of Shawn’s ritualistic precision. Yet he felt confident. “A part of me was cautious, I didn’t know what kind of bartenders I’d be up against. But I knew I had the skills and integrity to make Asia look good.”
So why this competition, of all available ones? “One, brand presence. It matters how well-known a brand is if it’s going on your CV. Two, the prizes can be enticing.”
Indeed, Shawn was flown to Trinidad and Tobago for the global final, where he immersed in the brand, culture, and exchange with bartenders from around the world. “I learnt a lot about Angostura’s rum and bitters after visiting the distillery. I plan to incorporate more of that knowledge into drinks at Mizukami. And the Soca music is so infectious. Might find a way to weave that in too. Also… more swizzles!”
Creative Process: Competition vs. Bar Service
Shawn breaks down how he approaches cocktails, “In competition, you’re allowed to go a bit over the top and a little more extravagant. It’s a showcase – a platform for all your skills, which doesn’t always work in day-to-day service. But the research behind both is similar, you need a strong story. The difference is, bar menus allow more leniency. As you’re not being judged in real time.”
On the Elusive Modern Classic
Jungle Bird is a creation by a Malaysian bartender in the 1970s that becomes a global classic. Despite the surge in new cocktail creations, few become true classics.
“It’s a probability game. Bartending has expanded so much over the past 15 years. There are more products, more equipment, more techniques, more bartenders. The chances of one drink cutting through and making it into a new modern classic are slimmer now, even with social media, which gives exposure but also buries things just as quickly. For a recipe to become a classic, you need a great drink, great marketing, right place, right time. That kind of luck is hard to come by.”
Shawn’s Angostura Competition Cocktails
Left: The Explorer’s SOL, (Swizzle of Life) or Soul - a swizzle cocktail that pays homage to Karl Too; (right) Siegert's Stars.
Global Entry:
Based on the Queen’s Park Swizzle, Shawn created The Explorer’s SOL—his anchor drink across all stages.
Malaysia (Mystery Box):
Mystery items: Angostura Cacao Bitters and Calamansi
Drink: A Churchill twist
Asia (Bangkok Mystery Box):
Mystery items: Angostura 200 Years Bitters and local pineapple
Drink: A martini-style creation showcasing Angostura rums
Global Final (Market Challenge in Trinidad):
Task: Use minimum two local ingredients
Drink: An improved martini using dragon fruit and plums, paired with an edible garnish made from unripe papaya
Shawn’s Angostura competition cocktails are available in Mizukami. Make your reservation at @bar.mizukami or wa.me/60163016498. Business hours: Cocktail Bar (Tue-Fri): 6pm-12am; Midday Diner (Sat): 1-7pm.
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