As part of our tour arranged by Stílusos Vidéki Éttermiség (SVÉT) (“Stylish Rural Gastronomy Association”) to rural Hungary, the first winery visit was to St. Andrea Szőlőbirto in Eger. It proves to be more than just drinking wine, it’s about entering into a conversation with Hungary’s history, its diverse terroir, and the philosophy of a family committed to quality over quantity.
Over lunch and through the cellar, we were guided by St. Andrea’s sommelier, Barna Boros, through a journey that unfolded a rich heritage of winemaking, from crisp whites born of volcanic soils to bold and complex reds that carry the legacy of Egri Bikavér, known to the world as “Bull’s Blood.”
Lunch was prepared by Chef János Macsinka of Macok Bistro: (From left) Marinated trout fillet from Szilvásvárad with butternut squash, marinated cucumber and caviar; Venison loin with sweet potatoes, blueberries, and porcini mushroom with cream from Bükki Sajtmanufaktúra (Bükk Cheese Manufactory); Cottage cheese dumplings with sour cream and raspberry sauce. [Photos: Kim Choong]
Eger’s Northern Cool
Eger is Hungary’s northernmost wine region, where the climate is generally cool and continental. The vineyards are mostly planted on volcanic soils, with pockets of limestone that lend a distinct minerality to the wines. Combined with the altitude and steep slopes, this landscape creates naturally low yields, sometimes just half a kilogram of grapes per vine. For St. Andrea, this scarcity translates directly into concentration and character in every bottle.
Unique White Grapes
The tasting began with the winery’s signature white blend under the Egri Csillag Superior label, St. Andrea Örökké 2023. By regulation, half of the blend must come from local grapes, and St. Andrea relies on Hungarian varieties such as Furmint and Hárslevelű alongside Olaszrizling (equivalent to Welschriesling), with smaller contributions from Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Viognier.
Fermented at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks and aged briefly in large Hungarian oak barrels, these wines showed freshness and fruit-driven acidity. Its clean profile is intentional to showcase Eger’s crisp whites, balanced by the minerality of volcanic soils.
The Role of Hungarian Oak
A discussion on oak followed, a reminder that barrels are as integral to wine as grapes themselves. St. Andrea works with Hungarian oak barrels made from Quercus petraea (Sessile Oak) sourced from the northern mountain ranges of Bükk and Zemplén, where soil was shallow, hence the trees take a long time to mature and prized for its tight grain.
This structure slows micro-oxidation and imparts subtle flavours without overwhelming tannins. Unlike the heavier influence of American oak or the variability of French sources, Hungarian oak allows wines to breathe gracefully. The result is structure without aggression, a subtle hand guiding the fruit, “Tannic wines are not so fashionable anymore,” noted Boros.
Inside St. Andrea's cellar carved out of limestone, the temperature remains at 15°C, the optimum temperature for aging wines. [Photo: Kim Choong]
The second white, Boldogságos Egri Csillag Grand Superior 2023,carried more weight, having spent eight months in oak. Different from the first wine, this was structured yet fresh, but with greater depth and complexity. We’re told that the 2023 vintage was a generous year in Hungary, marked by a long summer and ample rainfall, gave the wine richness and balance. The acidity cut through the creamy soup source, while added layer of fruitiness
This wine also opened discussion on Hungary’s broader wine market. Production still outpaces consumption, with many Hungarians turning to beer or energy drinks instead. Facing global oversupply, the industry’s survival depends on producing distinctively Hungarian wines of premium quality. “Average wines,” our host admitted, “are invisible. Only indigenous grapes and excellence can put Hungary on the map.
This wine also sparked discussion on Hungary’s broader wine market. Production still outpaces consumption, with many Hungarians turning to beer or energy drinks instead. Facing global oversupply, the industry’s survival depends on producing distinctively Hungarian, premium-quality wines. “Average wines,” our host admitted, “are invisible. Only indigenous grapes and excellence can put Hungary on the map.”
A Sweet Interlude
Though St. Andrea is not a sweet wine specialist, a rare late-harvest Ajándék Édes Cuvée 2023 was poured. Described as “a lucky accident,” the wine came from grapes left longer on the vine until sugar levels concentrated. At 110g of residual sugar balanced by firm acidity, it was vibrant rather than cloying. Served with dessert, the wine was surprisingly balance and the honey and floral notes were heightened.
Tasting mat at St. Andrea's wine tasting room, mapping the vineyards where each grape varietal resides. [Photo: Kim Choong]
Into the Cellar: The Story of Egri Bikavér
From the table, we were guided to a rack of coats and scarves as we progressed into the cellar carved from volcanic rock in 2005. Naturally cool at 15°C, it requires no air-conditioning, perfect for long aging. Here, the heart of Eger was revealed: Egri Bikavér
Known internationally as “Bull’s Blood,” Bikavér is more than a legendary story about Hungary, it is a protected designation of origin (PDO). Regulations require a blend of at least four grapes, anchored by Kékfrankos (also known as Blaufränkisch, originally from Austria). Historically celebrated since the mid-19th century, the style nearly vanished under the twin blows of phylloxera in the 1880s and later Soviet mass-production policies that prioritised volume over quality.
St. Andrea’s Bikavér wines are built barrel by barrel. The estate blend, Merengő Egri Bikavér Superior, is a selection of the winery’s best volcanic parcels, blended after months in oak and then returned to barrel for further aging. The 2022 vintage was powerful yet elegant, shaped by a challenging drought-stricken year that concentrated flavour into pea-sized grapes.
Merengo, Egri Bikaver Superior 2022 on a Hungarian oak wine barrel in the St. Andrea cellar. [Photo: Kim Choong]
Single Vineyards and the Pursuit of Uniqueness
Beyond blends, St. Andrea also crafts single-vineyard wines. One that echoes Burgundy’s philosophy of terroir was the Hangács dűlő Egri Bikavér Grand Superior 2022 from Demjén village, where rolling volcanic hills yield complex and concentrated Kékfrankos. Aged for 16 months in Hungarian oak, it offered length and savoury depth.
The estate’s pride is the Agapé Nagy-Eged-hegy dűlő Egri Bikavér Grand Superior 2018, made with Kékfrankos (40%) and Merlot (34%) sourced from Nagy-Eged Hill, the highest-altitude vineyard in Hungary at 536 metres. Planted on steep limestone, the south-facing plot yields just half a kilo of grapes per vine. International critics have awarded Agapé consistent 95–97 point ratings. Priced at €130, it competes comfortably with French and American wines at much higher price points. Older vintages, such as the 2012 magnum, have commanded €400, evidence of the vineyard’s prestige.
A glass of Egri Bikavér casting deep crimson reflections, its ‘legs’ trailing slowly down the bowl, showing off the wine’s richness. [Photo: Kim Choong]
The Future of Hungarian Wine
Throughout the tasting, certain words were repeatedly: indigenous and originality. In a world awash with Chardonnay and Merlot, Hungary’s strength lies in wines that cannot be replicated elsewhere. International grapes may still play a supporting role, but the backbone must remain local, Furmint, Hárslevelű, Kékfrankos, and Kadarka.
“As global wine consumption declines and average bottles struggle to find buyers, the middle ground is disappearing,” said Boros. Super-premium wines and sparkling categories thrive, while mass-market wines languish. For St. Andrea, the answer is clear: make wines that are unmistakably Eger, and uniquely Hungarian.
We ended the tasting with a meeting with the winery’s CEO and oenologist, Dr. György Lőrincz, who shared his philosophy: great wine is a dialogue between land, grape, and culture. From volcanic whites to limestone reds, from Soviet history to global markets, the journey was as much intellectual as sensory. The St. Andrea tasting was a cultural and historical lesson that left a deep impression.
For those who wish to taste St. Andrea, the winery will be present at the Decanter event in Singapore at the end of November. Their wines are also available locally through Wine Key.
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